Istanbul Guide
A city split across two continents by a strait, where a ferry ride is also a commute.
Istanbul rewards splitting time between the old city's mosques and palaces around Sultanahmet, the nightlife and rooftops of Beyoglu, and the Asian-side calm of Kadikoy across the Bosphorus. Traffic can be heavy at almost any hour, so ferries and the tram are often faster than a taxi. Friday prayer times briefly close working mosques to sightseeing, and the call to prayer sounds five times a day across the whole city.
Istanbul business directoryThe old city to the Bosphorus, end to end
Illustrated
Drawn by hand for the KEY2 Istanbul guide
Where to stay
Hotels
The KEY2 list
Happy Hour
Daylight
Hotel Pools & Pool Clubs
Eat
Best Food
Mornings
Breakfast & Brunch
Recover
Health & Wellness
After dark
Nightlife
Arenas
Sports
Tonight
Concerts & Comedy
Say it here
Weddings
Book the room
Event Spaces
Experiences
100 Other Things To Do
Istanbul explained
Hour-by-hour plans drawn by hand — pick one and follow it from first coffee to last call.
24 Hours in Istanbul
A tight loop through the old city, the Grand Bazaar and a Bosphorus-view dinner.
48 Hours in Istanbul
Two days balancing the imperial sights with the Bosphorus, Kadikoy and the bazaars.
Istanbul travel guide
The practical layer: when to come, how to arrive, how to move, where to base yourself and what it costs.
Best time to visit
April–May and September–October offer the mildest weather with thinner crowds than peak summer; winter is cold but calm and cheap outside major holidays.
Getting in
Istanbul Airport (IST) on the European side connects to the city by the Havaist airport bus (around 90 minutes to Taksim) or metro plus tram; Sabiha Gokcen Airport (SAW) on the Asian side is a further transfer from most hotels. Taxis and ride-hail apps run 45–75 minutes depending on traffic.
Getting around
The tram, metro and funicular network covers the old city and Beyoglu well, while ferries are the fastest and most scenic way to cross the Bosphorus or reach Kadikoy. An Istanbulkart transit card works across all public transport and is worth buying on arrival.
What it costs
A mid-range hotel runs 2,500–5,000 TL a night in peak season; dinner for two at a good restaurant costs 1,200–2,500 TL; a single public transport fare with an Istanbulkart is around 25–30 TL.
Where to stay
- Sultanahmet
- The old city, walking distance to Hagia Sophia, Topkapi Palace and the Blue Mosque, but touristy by day.
- Beyoglu
- The nightlife and dining hub around Istiklal Caddesi, with the best rooftop bars and restaurants.
- Besiktas
- A Bosphorus-front district with the city's grand waterfront hotels and palaces.
- Kadikoy
- A relaxed Asian-side neighbourhood with strong local food and a younger, less touristy crowd.
Traveller tips
- Buy an Istanbulkart at the airport or any kiosk; it works on trams, metro, buses and ferries.
- Dress modestly and carry a scarf for women when visiting mosques; shoes come off at the entrance.
- Friday midday prayers briefly close active mosques such as the Blue Mosque to sightseeing.
- Agree taxi fares or insist on the meter before departing, especially from tourist-heavy areas.
- Bargaining is expected in the Grand Bazaar but not in most restaurants or fixed-price shops.
- Traffic can make short distances slow by road; ferries across the Bosphorus are often faster and cheaper.
The Istanbul calendar
The dates that actually move prices, crowds and opening hours.
April
Istanbul Tulip Festival
Millions of tulips planted across the city's parks, with Emirgan Park the main draw.
April
Istanbul Film Festival
One of Turkey's oldest film festivals, screening across cinemas in Beyoglu.
June
Istanbul Music Festival
Classical concerts staged in historic venues including Hagia Irene and Ottoman palaces.
September
Istanbul Biennial
A contemporary art biennial (odd-numbered years) staged across museums and unconventional venues citywide.
October
Istanbul Marathon
The only marathon to cross two continents, running over the Bosphorus Bridge.
November
Ataturk Commemoration Day
The whole city pauses for a minute's silence at 9:05am on 10 November.
Seasonal highlights
- Spring (Mar–May)
- Mild and blooming with tulips, among the most pleasant times to visit before summer heat and crowds.
- Summer (Jun–Aug)
- Hot and busy with tourists; Bosphorus breezes help but midday sightseeing in the old city is tiring.
- Autumn (Sep–Nov)
- Warm sea temperatures linger into September with noticeably thinner crowds than summer.
- Winter (Dec–Feb)
- Cold and occasionally rainy or snowy, but the quietest and cheapest months to visit.
Off-peak intel
- Visit the Hagia Sophia and Blue Mosque before 9am to get ahead of tour groups and cruise excursions.
- Weekday mornings are the quietest time at the Grand Bazaar and Spice Bazaar.
- Winter months bring the lowest hotel rates alongside occasional rain, but far shorter queues.
- Book Topkapi Palace and Basilica Cistern tickets online in advance to skip the ticket-office line.