KEY2

Amalfi Coast Guide

Fifty kilometres of cliff road where the distance between two towns is measured in hours, not miles.

The coast is seasonal in the strictest sense: many hotels, restaurants and clubs open in April and close in late October. Travel by ferry wherever possible — the SS163 coast road is single-lane in places and summer traffic can double a journey. Base yourself in one town and take boats out from there.

Positano to Ravello, town by town

Illustrated hand-drawn map of Amalfi Coast with its landmarks and neighbourhoods

Drawn by hand for the KEY2 Amalfi Coast guide

Amalfi Coast explained

Hour-by-hour plans drawn by hand — pick one and follow it from first coffee to last call.

Amalfi Coast travel guide

The practical layer: when to come, how to arrive, how to move, where to base yourself and what it costs.

Best time to visit

Late May to June and September are ideal — warm sea temperatures and clear coastal views without the gridlocked SS163 road traffic and packed ferries of the July–August peak.

Getting in

Naples International (NAP) is the closest airport, about 1–1.5 hours by car or shuttle to Sorrento, the coast's usual gateway; alternatively, take the Circumvesuviana train from Naples to Sorrento (around €4, 70 minutes) and connect onward by ferry or SITA bus. A private transfer from Naples airport to Positano costs roughly €120–150.

Getting around

The coastal road is narrow, cliffside and famously congested in summer, so hiring a car is often more stressful than useful; SITA buses link the towns but run tightly packed and can be delayed for hours in high season. Ferries (Positano–Amalfi–Salerno–Capri routes, roughly €10–20 per hop) run April to October and are the fastest, most scenic way to move between towns, weather permitting.

What it costs

Mid-range hotel doubles run €180–320 a night in high season; dinner for two at a seafront trattoria is €70–110; a ferry hop between towns is €10–20, and a short taxi ride within a town is €15–25.

Where to stay

Positano
The postcard cliffside town, glamorous and steep, best for a splurge stay near boutique beach clubs.
Amalfi
The coast's namesake town with the cathedral and a working harbour, more affordable and better ferry connections.
Ravello
Hilltop and quieter, with villa gardens and clifftop views, best for those prioritising calm over beach access.
Praiano
A smaller, less crowded base between Positano and Amalfi, good value with sea access and easy bus links.

Traveller tips

  • Book ferries and popular restaurants days ahead in July and August — capacity is genuinely limited on this stretch of coast.
  • Beach clubs (lidos) charge €25–50 per person for a sunbed and umbrella; free public beach access exists but is limited.
  • The SS163 coastal road closes intermittently for landslide repairs or accidents — check local news before driving.
  • Many hillside towns involve hundreds of steps between the road and sea level; pack accordingly if mobility is a concern.
  • Cash is useful in smaller family-run trattorias and for tipping (rounding up or 5–10%), as not all accept cards.
  • Plugs are the two-round-pin Europlug (Type C/F/L) at 230V, so UK and US visitors need an adapter.

The Amalfi Coast calendar

The dates that actually move prices, crowds and opening hours.

April

Season opening & Easter processions

Hotels reopen, Good Friday processions in Amalfi and Praiano, cool clear days for walking.

June

Ravello Festival opens

Concerts on the Niemeyer belvedere stage above a 1,000-foot drop, running through September.

June

Regata delle Antiche Repubbliche Marinare

Amalfi hosts the historic maritime regatta once every four years; the town fills for it.

August

Peak season & Ferragosto

The busiest, priciest weeks; the coast road can be at a standstill by mid-morning.

September

Lemon and swim season together

Warm sea, thinner crowds, and hotels still fully open — the best month on the coast.

October

Closing weeks

Beach clubs and Positano nightlife shut down progressively; check dates before booking.

Seasonal highlights

Spring (Apr–May)
Wildflowers on the Path of the Gods, comfortable hiking, sea still cold.
Summer (Jun–Aug)
Everything open, everything full; boats beat cars in every direction.
Early autumn (Sep–Oct)
Warmest water of the year and calmer towns — the local recommendation.
Winter (Nov–Mar)
Most hotels and restaurants closed; Salerno and Sorrento stay open year-round.

Off-peak intel

  • Late April to mid-May and all of October give you the coast at two-thirds the price.
  • Stay in Praiano or Minori instead of Positano — same ferries, far lower rates.
  • Take the 8:00am ferry to Capri and return mid-afternoon to skip the day-trip crush.
  • Walk the Path of the Gods from Bomerano downhill to Nocelle, not the reverse.